I planted trees Japanese Cherry Blossum and Apple tree. Both were about ft tall. Done in Chicagoland I dug the hole around shove length deep or so. I put the tree in the ground out of the pot and put into the hole way was in the pot. Do I have dig it up because I didn’t undo the roots and dirt put in right out the pot. I watered before I put in during the fill also.
Should I dig them up and replant them or is it done where the tree can grow?
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what makes you think you must dig them up?theyre brown?in your area its probably getting to be autumn.#did you water an ft tree correctly for wks to get established?? if its doing poorly dont do any thing to it til sping then you will know for sure if you should dig it back up because this time of year they go dormant anyway.and what does shovel lengths mean?an ft tree needs a ft hole-the soiline must be even with the tree soiline
Source(s): lifelong landscaper
‘Potted’ trees (because they have tight root growing space) can develop interwoven and/or overlapping roots.
This becomes a problem when the tree gets bigger because those roots are yearly gaining in diameter; leading to choking of the root.
This phenomenon is similar to branches that overlap or cross, with the same problem.
These kinds of irregularities should be corrected for ideal conditions, before insertion, by pruning the less vigorous of the roots; but won’t likely manifest as widespread necrosis until the tree is larger.
Depth of planting should be done carefully.
Young trees have a ‘root collar’ on the main trunk. It is a slight bulge just above the soil.
That bulge should remain in that relative position when the transplant is complete.
Water soaking can be beneficial, but for a tree planted in fall, it’s benefit might be negligible.
There is a commercial compound available you dunk the roots in and it soaks up water and slowly releases for prolonged benefit…again fall planting might not prove to be any astonishing advantage with it.
A more important aspect, which may be too late to incorporate, would be to have the south side of the tree (as it grew) located in that same orientation. A trees bark becomes acclimated to the sun’s heating, and this cuts down on overheating and subsequent cracking later, especially in winter. This condition can be mitigated by ‘wrapping’ the tree with an approved paper, but not so tight as to constrict spring growth. Re-do every other year until the tree is well established.
Kind of a toss up on the re-planting…sometimes the shock of doing this is greater than the other benefits to be gained with corrective measures.
Forestry degree/MTU.
It sounds like you did everytghing right. Is the location sunny enough? Both of those need full sun all day. If not, transplant in the spring. If you live in a warm climate you can transplant the apple now.