i know details of waves but was wondering how tall a wave’s height is is determined. For example, how did scientists figure out the height of the world record surfing wave from a video camera only?If there is a website that explains this or if there is any math involved please help guide me to it!
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There two strong approaches to wave height. The Bascom Method and the Hawaiian Wave Scale. Like John Kelly Jr. once said, “you can overestimate or you can underestimate”. That is precisely what defines both theories of wave measurement.
Hawaiian surfers have been known for measuring waves from the back, which mean they cut wave face height in half, in a response to Californian surfers’ exaggerated achievements and bravado.
When big wave surfing got the attention of the media, as an alternative discipline of surfing, the Hawaiian Wave Scale conquered fans. It was really cool to underestimate the size of wave.
The scientific approach to wave height is, however, colder and pure mathematics. The method developed by Willard Newell Bascom is simple, fair and rational.
It tells us that to measure wave height, you should stand on the beach with your eyes aligned with the wave crest and the horizon. Then, measure the wave from that point to the average sea level.
The Hawaiian Wave Scale has a few disadvantages. It is difficult when measuring small waves, it can’t be confirmed from the beach, it is based in emotional variables of courage, it does not measure the entire face in which surfers ride and it doesn’t apply to waves that are big and heavy, but don’t wave a large back, like Teahupoo.
The third way of measuring waves would be a fair and balanced approach based on the area that is actually ridden by a surfer, 90% of the time. Having in mind that the bottom-turn is the lowest point in wave face, the Surfable Wave Face hypothesis would consider 2/3 of the Bascom Method as the area where surfers draw their lines and tricks, from the pocket to almost sea level.
In conclusion, a two-meter wave (6.5 feet) in the Bascom Method would correspond to a one-meter wave in the Hawaiian Scale (3.2 feet) and 1.3-meter wave (4.2 feet) in the Surfable Wave Face.
The logical concept of the Surfable Wave Face brings the best of the underestimated and overestimated models into a globally accepted model for measuring wave height in the sport of surfing. http://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/8357-how-to-mea…
Personally, when I am in the water, I always judge the waves that I am riding based on their size in relation to my body: Thigh high; chest high; head high; overhead; double overhead etc. Of course, a head high wave for me is a little under six feet. For my gandson, it is a little over 4 feet.
There are lots of hits in Google if you want more information.
Traditionally from the back, some groms and holidaymakers measure them from the front. After a while you get pretty good at calling it and you must add 10 per cent on when you are boasting about your exploits in the pub
Source(s): scientifically from mid-point to either trough or crest
depends where your from….hawaii the back of the wave so a 4 foot wave in hawaii is a 8 ft wave in cali
Source(s): life