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Surfing is fun because it doesnt matter who you are or what you are capable of doing on a surfboard, the thrill and joy you get is still the same. It can be intense and challenging or relaxing and meditative or both. It is great exercise and more fun than anything else. You can leave your troubles and worries on the shore when you paddle out and there is nothing like catching a nose ride on a green back lit wave face at sunrise when you can see strait through to the bottom and its only you and a few other people out. I could probably write an essay on it, but like they say, only a surfer knows the feeling. Best way to know what its like? Go do it.
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